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27 Kasım 2023
Reflecting back on my time this past summer in the delightfully non-touristy town of Vietri sul Mare just south of Salerno, I cannot say enough about my accommodations at the family owned and operated Ambrosea Amalfi Coast. Perched atop the cliffside town, this bed and breakfast is a perfect spot from which to explore the town and region. Staffed by the ever-gracious and accommodating Carmen, with help from her mom, the rooms are ample and the atmosphere welcoming and serene. During my weeklong writing retreat, I met a number of other guests from Europe and the U.S., all of whom ebulliently shared stories of favorite restaurants and "must see" attractions along the Amalfi Coast. Carmen was always on hand during breakfast hours to facilitate local travel, including how to access the high-speed ferry boats that function like an aquatic metro system transporting locals and tourists alike to towns dotting the coast. The views from the water are breathtaking and during summer months offer exposure to much desired breezes. Another benefit of Ambrosea is its proximity to the sea about a half mile down a narrow cobblestone road. For those who like to swim for exercise, the best time to go is early in the morning (e.g. 7 am) when the waters are still as glass. Carmen can tell you how to get to the public beach where you can safely stash your clothes and swim just outside the roped-off beaches for as far as you want to go. There's no charge for beach access at this spot early in the morning, leaving the whole day open for whatever adventure your heart desires. Don't miss getting back for breakfast, however, as it is always delectable (Carmen formerly worked as a private chef). The one caution I would offer to those planning to stay here is to make sure you're okay with lugging your suitcase up a few flights of stairs as there's no elevator. Good exercise if you're able-bodied and all the more reason to pack light. Also, if you're coming from the train station just blocks away, keep in mind that the entrance and signage is NOT on the main street; rather it is in a courtyard just off the main street. Locals might not recognize Ambrosea by name or street address, but if you mention Carmen, everyone knows her.
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